Daytona 675 gearing

[KevEd614]

Any of you Daytona 675 guys feeling kind enough to share some of your baseline gearing data?

I did my first novice weekend at HPR last week and had a blast but was a little unhappy with the stock gearing. I could go out to a track day and spend a lot of time working on this but getting some good suggestions on where to start would be great. Suggestions for HPR, Pueblo, and PPIR would be awesome. Also thinking about converting to 520 chain and sprockets while I am at it? Any thoughts there?

Thanks in advance!

[sheispoison]

Hey Kevin,
So in my novice year, 2008, I ran rookie gearing 15 front 47 rear. The faster you get you'll want to run taller gearing. I'm running 16-48 now. In 2008 Brad Hendry was running 16-45, so real tall, and he was REAL fast. At PPIR I still go back to the short gearing (short track) and run 15-48. As far as doing the 520 conversion, I did it as soon as I started racing. Vortex makes good aluminum 520 sprockets, Foothills can get them for you, as can any Vortex dealer.
Hope that helps.
carl

[graphite675]

I'm running stock 16/47 (520)right now. I was running 15/47 but as I got faster I found myself running out of top end on the straights. 15/47 is probably good for PPIR but you'll need something a little higher for HPR and Pueblo because of the long straights.
I might try Carl's combo of 16/48, that's hit's right in the middle of those 2 with out loosing too much top end.

If you go to the gearing commander web site. I put in the info for the 675 a few years ago. It allows you to play with different gear combinations to see what the effect will be.

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

Just select the 675 from the drop donw menus and then you can change the final drive ratio around.

.

[KevEd614]

Well maybe I need to go faster then, haha. I noticed I was a little low in the revs coming out of T6 and T8 in 2nd gear and just barely (and I mean barely) hit 5th gear on the back straight so I was going to shorten it a little. I was originally thinking 15/47 or shorter.

[Bartman]

I always like to try to ride into taller gearing just like I like to ride into faster suspension settings, that way the faster you go the better the bike feels and it can help pull you along to faster speeds.

[Fastt Racing]

Bart is on the money for sure. I have seen this for myself. Problem is I grew into my suspension & gearing, and then didn't change gears while I got 3 seconds faster in one weekend. My gear when I started was 16-50 (3.125) good for 2:02 laps. I'm running 1:59.0 now. Now I'm topping out because I'm getting out of HPR T3 pretty good. I am changing to 16-49 (3.063). An important factor is how your bike comes of corners. Your peak rpm on the straight isn't as important as the majority of corner exits and gear change points on the track IMO.

Carl is real fast in corners, even on the curbing that's why he needs a 48 or 47.

Aparently Jim (graphite675) is real fast through corners too! Good job Jim.

The DID Gold ERV3 chain is very high quality, very low drag, very light, very expensive, but I think worth it, as I have switched to that chain on a couple of bikes and love them. Sprocket Specialist are great. Renthal look a little lighter. Vortex are readily available from more vendors. Pit Bull sprockets also look sweet. I will be running a new Pit Bull at Pueblo, see you there!

[KevEd614]

Great, thanks guys for all the info and suggestions. Now hopefully I can get out on a trackday and play with the gearing a little.

Much appreciated!