Bueller999
October 18th, 2011, 06:54 AM
The bike has a clean Colorado title and will come with the street plastics (green), but they are all damaged and/or rashed. The lights, mirrors, ignition switch, fuel cap and pillion have been sold off to help finance the build. I sold the stock tank and put a slightly dented (repaired) tank on it for racing. The kickstand bracket has been cut off for clearance issues. Wiring harness is complete and intact. I have raced/tracked this bike since last October. I changed oil every 2-3 races/trackdays.
Sharkskins bodywork w/ Puig wind screen, very nice stuff with slight cut out for clipon clearance. The paint is rattle can, so not the highest quality but I dont dump a ton of $ into paint for race bikes.
Completely safety wired to pass MRA tech + some personal preferences
Ignition key eliminated and weather proof toggle switch installed
Set up for a hardwire transponder that can be turned on and off with bright light rocker switch. It is also drilled and can be pinned to prevent accidentally turning it off.
I installed LED idiot lights in top triple for neutral (green), transponder power (blue), oil pressure (red) and water temp (yellow).
I made a couple of brackets to hold a Vapor computer but I use it for my Droid as a lap timer. This entailed me cutting off the ignition switch mount on the triple.
Woodcraft clip ons with the 2 in. risers specifically for the ninjette
Hong Kong (CRG) knockoff adjustable brake and clutch levers. (Spare clutch lever)
Sportisi adjustable rearsets set up GP shift (cut out counter sprocket cover with an unaltered spare).
Brake lines changed to braided steel front and rear.
Front brake pads are new and were installed 10/15/2011 and the brake fluid changed and bled.
Coolant was also changed and antifreeze added for winter.
Pingle dogbones to raise rear 1 ½.
Newish (1 race an 2 track days) 520 standard (non oring) DID racing chain for less rolling resistance and 3 aluminum rear sprockets 45T(stock and what I use @ HPR), 47T and 49T (IMI), along with a spare carrier so gearing change take 10 min.
The front forks were service with fresh oil (15wt., stock is 7.5wt.) mid season and I added spacers to increase preload 10mm. This and raising the rear ride height made a huge improvement in handling and front tire wear. I am ~210# and race sag is real close with the stock springs.
The carbs have been jetted and shimmed.
The exhaust is a full 2 into 2 Totsubo GP style that is undoubtedly the loudest exhaust you can put on a 250. And I mean really really loud! I did a side by side dyno comparison of the Totsubo and the AreaP short CF system by running one on the dyno and then pulling the exhaust and bolting the other up with out removing the bike and then ran that one. The Totsubo put out almost 1 ½ hp more in the sweet spot of the curve so that is what stayed on the bike. But be warned, it is fraking loud!
I have run Bridgestone BT-003 RS 140 rear tires and BT-016 110s on the front all year and have been extremely happy with the performance for the price. The current rear is nearing the end of its useful life, the front is still in good shape.
I have some spares for the bike in addition to what has been previously mentioned
I am asking $3800
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee291/rmsupermoto999/MRA%20Racing/e23d76b5.jpg
Sharkskins bodywork w/ Puig wind screen, very nice stuff with slight cut out for clipon clearance. The paint is rattle can, so not the highest quality but I dont dump a ton of $ into paint for race bikes.
Completely safety wired to pass MRA tech + some personal preferences
Ignition key eliminated and weather proof toggle switch installed
Set up for a hardwire transponder that can be turned on and off with bright light rocker switch. It is also drilled and can be pinned to prevent accidentally turning it off.
I installed LED idiot lights in top triple for neutral (green), transponder power (blue), oil pressure (red) and water temp (yellow).
I made a couple of brackets to hold a Vapor computer but I use it for my Droid as a lap timer. This entailed me cutting off the ignition switch mount on the triple.
Woodcraft clip ons with the 2 in. risers specifically for the ninjette
Hong Kong (CRG) knockoff adjustable brake and clutch levers. (Spare clutch lever)
Sportisi adjustable rearsets set up GP shift (cut out counter sprocket cover with an unaltered spare).
Brake lines changed to braided steel front and rear.
Front brake pads are new and were installed 10/15/2011 and the brake fluid changed and bled.
Coolant was also changed and antifreeze added for winter.
Pingle dogbones to raise rear 1 ½.
Newish (1 race an 2 track days) 520 standard (non oring) DID racing chain for less rolling resistance and 3 aluminum rear sprockets 45T(stock and what I use @ HPR), 47T and 49T (IMI), along with a spare carrier so gearing change take 10 min.
The front forks were service with fresh oil (15wt., stock is 7.5wt.) mid season and I added spacers to increase preload 10mm. This and raising the rear ride height made a huge improvement in handling and front tire wear. I am ~210# and race sag is real close with the stock springs.
The carbs have been jetted and shimmed.
The exhaust is a full 2 into 2 Totsubo GP style that is undoubtedly the loudest exhaust you can put on a 250. And I mean really really loud! I did a side by side dyno comparison of the Totsubo and the AreaP short CF system by running one on the dyno and then pulling the exhaust and bolting the other up with out removing the bike and then ran that one. The Totsubo put out almost 1 ½ hp more in the sweet spot of the curve so that is what stayed on the bike. But be warned, it is fraking loud!
I have run Bridgestone BT-003 RS 140 rear tires and BT-016 110s on the front all year and have been extremely happy with the performance for the price. The current rear is nearing the end of its useful life, the front is still in good shape.
I have some spares for the bike in addition to what has been previously mentioned
I am asking $3800
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee291/rmsupermoto999/MRA%20Racing/e23d76b5.jpg