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KevEd614
May 11th, 2011, 03:59 PM
I am hoping to get my '07 Daytona 675 ready for Novice this year and I have a question about bolt safety wiring; I see three options (any others?), and I am wondering what anyone suggests??

1) Drill and wire all bolts myself in compliance with regulations
2) Take the bike to a shop that will set it up (price?)
3) Buy a pre-drilled safety bolt kit (brand?)

I appreciate the help in advance! Thanks!


Kevin

rybo
May 11th, 2011, 04:01 PM
Do it yourself.

once you get started it won't take that long. have a good supply of drill bits on hand and take your time.

I can do a complete bike in about 1.5 hours start to finish these days. First time through might take you a little longer.

Throttleroller277
May 11th, 2011, 05:10 PM
Agreed .... It's good to get yourself trained to doing all the time too.

dragos13
May 12th, 2011, 06:03 AM
Buy quality drill bits and use a little bit of oil on the tip to keep them from wearing out faster.

Also, you can either drill while the bolts are on the bike (thats what I prefer) or pull them off and put them in a clamp. Pay attention to where you are drilling so that the wire will be holding the bolt from turning out. Here is a good picture for different examples:

http://www.funhog.w1.com/images/r6/Safetywired.jpg

Bartman
May 12th, 2011, 11:01 AM
If you have access use a drill press, low speed is you friend.

phildrummond
May 12th, 2011, 04:37 PM
Like the guys said...have plenty of bits. I broke a ton of bits my first time. Go slow and have a ton of patience on the hardened bolts. Some will drill through like butter and others seem to take 10 minutes oer bolt. I think I went to Ace 5 times the first bike I did...and it wasn't even a complete bike. DeWalt 3/16 bits last longest for me.

TRK
May 13th, 2011, 08:31 PM
Ace hardware hard steel bits

KevEd614
May 16th, 2011, 03:01 PM
Thanks a lot guys, Desmodromico as well! I appreciate all the help, pictures and all!

I'll be giving it a shot next week.

Kevin

KevEd614
May 26th, 2011, 08:44 AM
Any requirements/suggestions on type/material of wire to use? I noticed in the rulebook it mentions 0.032" diameter but not much else.

Thanks!

Kevin

rybo
May 26th, 2011, 08:51 AM
the wire I'm using is stainless steel

check Faster! motosports, I'm pretty sure they have what you need in stock.

graphite675
May 26th, 2011, 06:48 PM
Anyone know of a source for 0.032 wire in Colorado Springs? All I can find is 0.041?

Thanks,
JP


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KevEd614
May 26th, 2011, 08:11 PM
I talked to someone at Faster! Motorsports today and they said they had 0.028". Not exactly in Co Springs though.

graphite675
May 26th, 2011, 09:05 PM
I talked to someone at Faster! Motorsports today and they said they had 0.028". Not exactly in Co Springs though.

Thanks, That may be my only option? Just hate to spend $30 in gas to go get $5 worth of wire.


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Bueller999
May 26th, 2011, 09:07 PM
If you find it for $5 LMK where.

graphite675
May 26th, 2011, 09:10 PM
Well, okay, I don't want to spend $30 in gas for $15 worth of wire :-)

spideyrdr
May 26th, 2011, 09:31 PM
I am all for buying local whenever possible but if you're in a jam:

http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL10121-0-032-Safety/dp/B003BZL9E2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1306466875&sr=8-1

Ships free 2-day if you have a prime account. If you don't have prime, you can probably add some other items to get to $25 and get standard shipping free. Another option, if you are in a bind, you can paypal me the $17 and I'll have it shipped to you (I have a prime account). You'd have it Monday. Or send over $21 and you SHOULD have it Saturday via overnight shipping.

graphite675
June 5th, 2011, 01:03 PM
Another question on what needs to be wired?

Do you have to do radiator hose clamps? I've done the radiator cap and of course the oil related stuff (filler cap, dip stick, filter and drain plugs) and I think I have the brakes covered (banjos, caliper bolts and pad pins), Also have the front axle and pinch bolts drilled as well as the rear axle.

Am I missing anything else?

Thanks,
JP

sheispoison
June 5th, 2011, 01:24 PM
PM sent.
carl

graphite675
June 5th, 2011, 01:36 PM
Got it, Thanks Carl.

I think I have it covered then
.

KevEd614
June 5th, 2011, 07:25 PM
I am curious of Carl;s answer about any other bolts to safety wire. Either of you want to forward me that?

Thanks!

Kevin

Fastt Racing
June 6th, 2011, 12:38 AM
If you have a Milling machine or drill press with a nice fixed vise, you can brill everything without breaking 1 bit, it takes starter holes then reposition the bolt in vise, and bore right through it. Look at rules and wire what is required. Brake caliper bolts, axle bolts, drain plugs, etc. Brake lever pivot bolt is not in rule book, but is required by Bart.... Make sure everything else is tight, and don't wire up a bunch of crap uneccessarily. If you want I can take pics of all my safety wired components so you can see exactly how to wire what.

graphite675
June 6th, 2011, 08:31 AM
Look at rules and wire what is required. Brake caliper bolts, axle bolts, drain plugs, etc. Brake lever pivot bolt is not in rule book, but is required by Bart.... Make sure everything else is tight, and don't wire up a bunch of crap uneccessarily.

This is were I am having issue. I read the rule book and it's not exactly cut and dry. Some things are obvious but others are not. If it is not in the rule book but Bart requires it how am I ever to know until I show up to race?

This is what I have done/been told so far on my 675:

Brakes: Caliper bolts, banjo bolts at caliper and at master cyl., and the pin that goes through the pads.

Axles: Front pinch bolts and axle, rear axle

Oil: Drain plug, Filter, filler cap, dip stick.

Radiator: Cap

Can someone from the MRA staff confirm 100% that this is all I need to be legit? I really don't want to show up Saturday to race and get turned away because something wasn't drilled/wired.


JP

sheispoison
June 6th, 2011, 09:27 AM
Someone from the board can correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure you got all of it JP. The pivot on the brake master cylinder is only for the Brembo masters is what I was told. It's not a bad thing to wire extra stuff, but what you listed is all that's required. Things like hose clamps, exhaust springs can never hurt, I even did my cam chain tensioner bolts just for piece of mind.
carl

KevEd614
June 6th, 2011, 06:24 PM
Any of you Daytona guys have a picture of your brake bleeder/pinch bolts safety wired? I am trying to figure out how to drill it.

Thanks!

Kevin

graphite675
June 6th, 2011, 06:44 PM
Any of you Daytona guys have a picture of your brake bleeder/pinch bolts safety wired? I am trying to figure out how to drill it.

Thanks!

Kevin

I didn't wire the bleeder bolt, just the banjo bolt (that holds the line on the caliper and master cyl), the 2 mounting bolt and the pin that goes through the pads. I'll take a pic in a bit and post it up.


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graphite675
June 6th, 2011, 06:58 PM
Here's some pics

Front caliper...

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/jpeepers/wiresmall001.jpg

Front master Cyl, banjo bolt ( at the lever).

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/jpeepers/wiresmall005.jpg

Rear caliper...

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/jpeepers/wiresmall008.jpg


Rear Master Cyl. banjo bolt.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/jpeepers/wiresmall007.jpg

Radiator cap...

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/jpeepers/wiresmall009.jpg

Oil filter and drain plug.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m271/jpeepers/wiresmall003.jpg

Also did the axles, pinch bolts and oil filler and dip stick I don't have wire on them at the moment so no pic.

Hope this helps or if anyone has any comments please chime in.


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KevEd614
June 6th, 2011, 07:38 PM
How did you drill those at an angle?

sheispoison
June 6th, 2011, 10:26 PM
On the front calipers I wire the pad pin to the banjo bolt since they don't get removed as often as the mounting bolts (mounting bolts come off every tire change). Come by my pit this weekend and I can show you how I did it so it's not a pain in the ass every time you change tires.
carl

graphite675
June 7th, 2011, 07:53 AM
Great idea Carl, I didn't think about that. I think I'll change that up so I can remove the bolts with out having to re-wire the pin as well.


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graphite675
June 7th, 2011, 08:00 AM
How did you drill those at an angle?

Very carefully! :-)

Depending on the bolt I either went in from the side and then angled it up as it went in a bit. Others I drilled side to side. I have a drill press also so that helped. Its a pain in arse and tedious. Have lots of drill bits and patience.

Search Youtube, I think there are some videos on there of how to drill?
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KevEd614
June 15th, 2011, 09:39 AM
Just wanted to give a big thanks to everyone who helped me out on this thread with suggestions and pictures. Tech went perfectly and my first novice weekend was a blast!

Thanks!

Kevin

rforsythe
June 15th, 2011, 02:41 PM
A little extra wire on stuff you're not sure about never hurt anyone, but the basic guidelines are simple. If it comes loose and:
- Fluid comes out
- You can't stop
- You can't control the bike
- Wheels fall off
- Something big hits another rider (like exhaust)
Then it needs to be wired. Coincidentally I do not have my rad hose clamps wired, I think those are exempt since they won't really vibrate loose. Again though if you're not sure, it's really quite cheap insurance. I do also suggest wiring the shift rod on if you haven't yet, those things get lost all the time and it will mess up your whole race when you get stuck in 2nd gear.