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N1K
March 27th, 2010, 10:35 AM
Clutch felt as if the bite point when doing starts was gone.The last couple starts have gone like I couldn't not feel it grab like I had been then bam it would grab hard and the front would go skyward. So Ive never changed the clutch since new and the bike has 17k or 18k or so on it so I planned on doing so. I've taken the old one out and the steels do have some marking on umm but not to bad and the fibers are worn but still have some material on umm. What I have found is a little bit of wear on the basket some groves and what i would call the pressure plate spring studs have some deep groves on them some deeper then others on both. Now what does this mean? Would this of been the cause of the problem or what would this have been causing ? Is this common? What would you do now? Could the clutch feel be a simple as differant oil and the rest is still good?

Throttleroller277
March 27th, 2010, 02:43 PM
I raced 03 -04 r6's for couple years. Give me a call and we can discuss, or depending on where you live, I can come check it out, and give you a hand. 303-210-0425

The GECCO
March 27th, 2010, 03:45 PM
FWIW, I've found that as a clutch nears the end of it's life it does exactly what you describe - it's hard to modulate, acts more like a switch.

Visually, there is very little difference between a worn friction plate and a new friction plate. The difference in thickness between the two is very small, but adds up over the depth of the stack. So, just because it "looks" ok, doesn't mean it is.

After 18k miles, I'd say to replace the steels, especially after a few race starts. It's not that much additional cost, and since starts are SO critical, it's money well spent.

Lastly - BUY AN OEM CLUTCH! They're the best, hands down, period, enough said.

As for the other problems, you'll have to post some pics or let Jeff take a look and advise you. He knows his stuff.

dragos13
March 27th, 2010, 04:51 PM
PM sent

N1K
March 27th, 2010, 06:08 PM
I raced 03 -04 r6's for couple years. Give me a call and we can discuss, or depending on where you live, I can come check it out, and give you a hand. 303-210-0425

Cool right on Brown! I'll call you tonight I work till 8.

Thanks Glenn. thanks Casey
Hearing you say that about how they act before they die helps me forsure. I feel a little better in that it will be ok cause thats the only problem I was having. Now I've bought a barret clutch what do you guys think on umm??

The GECCO
March 28th, 2010, 09:17 AM
Now I've bought a barret clutch what do you guys think on umm??

Not being a smart-ass, but can you return it? Seriously, I've tried three different aftermarket brands of clutches (Barnett was one, I assume that's what you meant?) and the OEM clutches are far better than all the others put together. If you can return it w/o taking it up the backside, do it, and get an OEM clutch.

dragos13
March 28th, 2010, 11:27 AM
I'm with Glenn and only run OEM.

bluedevil
March 30th, 2010, 09:41 AM
Agreed with G and C.
Barnett Clutches on my Yami didnt seem to have any feel to them and went down hill fast.

If you can return, do it, Il ditto the OEM on Yami Clutches.

nwatkins176
March 30th, 2010, 09:53 AM
Just currious by why not go to a sick slipper clutch since his OEM is fried? Or am I talking about different parts?

The GECCO
March 30th, 2010, 02:22 PM
Just currious by why not go to a sick slipper clutch since his OEM is fried? Or am I talking about different parts?

That's a pretty hefty investment compared to just replacing worn disks. Needs a new basket, etc.