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peteremsley
May 28th, 2009, 09:45 PM
Mine doesn't seem to be working :(

Is it just a simple switch like it seems? I plugged the PowerCommander (PC3USB) into my laptop and it said the shifter as set to cut out above 7000 RPM for 55 ms, so I guess it acknowledges it, and the appropriate software is installed.

If I unplug the quick shifter and put an ohm meter across the two wires that plug into the powercommander, it appears to be open circuit all the time.

Is it dead for good, repairable, or am I underestimating the technology?

Thanks,
peter.

racedk6
May 28th, 2009, 10:00 PM
Make sure you have a QS that is meant for your shift pattern. i.e Push or Pull

cactusjack
May 29th, 2009, 09:36 AM
Peter,

When testing with the multimeter, is the switch still attached to the shift linkage? It takes quite a bit of force to trigger the switch by hand when not attached to the linkage, which provides quite a bit of mechanical advantage.

As Grubbs says, you have to ensure that you have the right type (i.e. push v. pull). Try testing it with the multimeter again, this time try it both downshifting and upshifting. If the circuit closes on a downshift rather than an upshift, you have the opposite type of quickshifter than you need.

Is it a Dynojet unit? I believe those cannot be changed between push and pull. If it's a Cordona (sp?), I believe the switch can be reversed from pull to push and vice versa.

If you have the wrong type of switch, you can make it work by reversing your shift pattern (actually, may depend on your bike). Not sure if this is something you want to do, though.

-Jacek

peteremsley
May 29th, 2009, 11:28 AM
Thanks.

It’s a DynoJet, a pull (correct for application), and is still attached to the linkage.

I did set it to operate above 1000 RPM and cut out for 255 ms. I presumed I would hear the bike cut out when shifting through the gears on the rear stand at 1200 rpm. Didn't hear a thing...

I'll give it another try and also take a closer look at the routed cable, there may be a problem with that (cut or abraded).

I talked to DJ tech support, and they said they would test it for me, but all they are going to do is connect it to an ohm meter like I did. Apparently they can't be repaired.

$270 for a new one - its a SWITCH!

mbohn
May 29th, 2009, 01:40 PM
Apparently they can't be repaired. $270 for a new one - its a SWITCH!
In my opinion, you are shifting plenty damn fast as it is!

cactusjack
May 29th, 2009, 05:16 PM
When I tested it with the bike running on a rear stand, I set the RPMs low like you but kept the interval to 69ms, which is what I am running (I wanted to get a sense of what 69ms actually feels/sounds like). Take it all the way to 6th gear and try to upshift from there. If it's working, you should hear the engine hesitate.

Running through the gears on low RPMs on a rear stand doesn't tell you a whole lot, because the gears will change pretty effortlessly even without a quickshifter. Or at least mine did, maybe that's because my transmission is far from perfect at this point...

racedk6
May 29th, 2009, 07:58 PM
If you have it set at 1000 rpm and 255 ms and try to use it, it should kill the bike completely.

Also make sure that when you run the QS software that you enable the shift kill. I think you are still able to change the kill time when it is disabled but it will have no effect on the bike.