Safety Wire and coolant hose clamps

[Ice]

In the past I've drilled the hose clamp fastener heads out and wired them. Running short on bits now and looked over the rulebook and the clamps aren't "nuts or fittings that drain fluid when removed"... do the coolant hose clamps need to be drilled and wired? Did a search but couldn't find a post to clarify.

Things drilled so far (for sanity check - pls point out if I'm missing anything):
Brake caliper mounting bolts
Axles and Axle Nuts
Oil Drain Plug and filler
Coolant drain plug and filter
Brake banjo bolts (coming up)

Thanks!
Jim

[TD675]

Safety wire isn't required on the hose clamps but it's a plus if you do it. As a personal preference I use the screw type hose clamps, I always seem to have problems with the spring clamps. With the screw clamps, you can wire to the tail of it (the bit that is left over and sticks out) just like how some of the oil filters are done so you don't have to drill holes in the clamp.

Depending on the type of caliper you have, make sure you also drill the pins that keep that pads in or wire the clips that keep them in. Check the engine covers also, a lot of times there is one bolt that screws into an oil passage that will need to be wired. You should be able to identify it by the copper washer that is used under it.

[Ice]

Thanks very much! I have located the bolt on the engine cover you mentioned and will drill that bad boy out.

As for brakes, I'll do some research. I have the caliper off the bike at the moment so it's a good time to inspect it....

[Ice]

And wiring the tail of the screw clamps is straight up genius...

[Jon]

Oh boy I can just hear the conversation now on how I need to somehow wire the springs that are retained by the pads that Carl had an hour long discussion with Brian Sharp on as to how the hell Brembo retention springs could be somehow wired to not come out when they are retained by the pad themselves. The best answer beingles to have the tech inspector themselve remove and reinstall the pad themselves and then only then will they understand what a truly secure system it is. ....

[TD675]

Oh boy I can just hear the conversation now on how I need to somehow wire the springs that are retained by the pads that Carl had an hour long discussion with Brian Sharp on as to how the hell Brembo retention springs could be somehow wired to not come out when they are retained by the pad themselves. The best answer beingles to have the tech inspector themselve remove and reinstall the pad themselves and then only then will they understand what a truly secure system it is. ....

I agree with this. The comment I made was in regards to calipers that hold the pads in with pins, not spring clips like Brembos. For example, R6 or Ninja 300 stock calipers.

[chrobis]

Speaking of stock Ninja 300 calipers, I have these, and there isn't enough bolt head protruding from the caliper to get a hole through. What is the recommended way to secure the pads - drilling through the pins in the interior of the caliper, i.e., near the pads themselves?

- Chris

[TD675]

I've got mine drilled through the caliper and the head of the bolt. I'll try to post a picture of it tomorrow.

[TD675]

Ninja 300 front caliper. The rear caliper needs to be done also. I did it the same way that the front is done.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v161/whirlybird/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160423_071147369_zpstevxz79e.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whirlybird/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160423_071147369_zpstevxz79e.jpg.html)

[chrobis]

Thanks. I was loathe to drill into the caliper body, but on the bright side, it does make it a simple matter torque those down in the future!

[TD675]

FYI, I've done several calipers this way and have never had a problem but it was brought to my attention today that some calipers (sounded like on 250's) have cracked during drilling. So just use caution and go slow.